50 Amp Home Brewery Controller Build
When we started building a 50 Amp controller for a customer I decided to document the process from start to finish. This controller is designed to run a HERMS system or a RIMS tube and boil pot and when complete. Our 50 Amp controller will support up to two 5500 watt elements at the same time. One or two pumps can be switched on independent of each other and independent of the elements, giving you plenty of flexibility over your home brewery design..
All of our controllers are GFCI ready and all uave been tested on a GFCI circuit. This controller will have a 4 prong 50 Amp range style plug because to be GFCI compliant, a mixed voltage home brewery controller has to be a 4 wire system.
All of our controllers are manufactured using a process similar to this one. Every controller we build starts with a all aluminum housing because plastic it too dangerous to build with. The problem with a plastic housing is a failing SSR can easily melt any plastic housing down into a molten firey goo!
Note: We recently started selling this same controller on www.amazon.com. (5/2015)
Bottom Housing Machining
We start with a Bud Industries AN-2858-B chassis that measures 8.75" X 5.75" X 3.25". Some would say that $46.20 is too much to spend on a housing but the alternative is plastic and we won't go there because plastic is a fire hazard.
Drill the mounting holes for the relays and main contactor. The main contactor switches incoming power on and off.
Drill he openings for incoming power, plug cable glands and safety ground.
Test fit cable gland fittings.
Machine the openings for the heat sink assemblies.
Our larger controllers have fan assisted heat sinks. Testing shows the fans aren't needed but a little extra insurance never hurts!
We start with a 4" length of heat sink cut off a longer extrusion.
We drill the mounting holes and power feed hole in each one.
We machine the insets where the fans will mount.
We mount the fans then add some extra tubing to the wires where they will pass through the housing to the inside.
Then we mount the heat sink assemblies to the lower housing.
Top Housing Machining
Machine all of the mounting holes in the top cover.
Mount all of the relays and main power contactor in the bottom housing. The main contactor turns incoming power on and off.
Install the incoming power cable clamp.
Mount and pre-wire the SSRs
Install the internal power supply
Pre-wire the Relays
Pre-wire the Outlet Pigtails
Install the Outlet Cable Glands
Install and wire the Outlets - the ground wires are all connected later
Assemble Hardware to the Faceplate
The two left switches turn pumps 1 & 2
We pre-wire the faceplate
We use Hydraulic Crimpers to attach terminals to the #6 wire that will be feeding power to the panel.
All of the wiring is done except for the neutral and safety ground
The box looks very busy but everything was
done in layers. No single layer was overly complicated.
One more crimp with the hydraulic crimper.
This one's the two neutral wires for the
pump control circuits
One completed 50 Amp control panel.
This site is owned and operated by Tom Hargrave Sales
12021 South Memorial Parkway, Suite N-4