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MYPIN TA4 Greenhouse / Homebrew Fermentation Chamber Controller

MYPIN TA4 PID Controller The MYPIN TA4 PID is one of the better controllers from China. The PID is easy to use and easier to program than most. The nice part of these controllers is the model TA4-SSR has two SSR outputs plus one relay making this particular controller very good at managing a small greenhouse, a fermentation chamber or anything else that needs to be kept within a temperature range.

Here is a copy of the actual instructions that ship with the controller:
http://www.kegkits.com/TA4.pdf

Greenhouse Controller Schematic

This schematic contains everything needed to build your own greenhouse controller.


Click Pichure to download schematic

Parts List:
1 - Housing - Your choice but because of the envronment we recommend something waterproof.
     A metal housing can double as a heat sink for the two SSRs - you just mount the SSRs to the inside of the box.
     Here is one recommendation from www.digikey.com that is cast aluminum and includes a mounting flange.

1 - MYPIN TA4-SSR PID Temperature Controller.
2 - 25A rated SSRs (Solid Sate Relays).
1 - K type thermocouple - use to measure temperature.
1 - Common wall outlet - but please read the Outlet modification note below.
1 - Electric space heater - available from Wal-Mart & other sources.
     Note: This project was designed with an electric heater in mind. A conventional thermostat will work better
     with gas heat used in larger greenhouses.
1 - Exhaust vent - can be a re-purposed bathroom vent or a vent designed for your greenhouse.
1 - Heavy duty extension cord - rated for the current that your space heater will draw.
     The female end will be cut off & the cord will be used to feed power to your controller
3 Ft (at the most) - Wire for the internals of your project.
     If your extension cord is long enough you can cut off about 3' off the female end and use the wires for your internal wiring.

PID Settings:
The heater is managed by the controller's PID logic. We recommend that you start with a temperature setting that's 10 - 15 degrees F above the lowest temperature you want your greenhouse to reach over night & we recommend that you monitor your temperature independent of this controller until you are sure the heater you selected will maintain your minimum desired temperature. Only then should you drop your setting lower to conserve heat. We recommend that you run the PID in auto-tune mode so that the controller auto-adapts to season changes.

The exhaust fan is managed by the AL1 setting with no PID action - it's a simple on/off like a thermostat.

Project Assembly

Sorry for not providing more specific step-by-step instructions but how things go together depends a lot on the housing you chose to build your project into. Later on we will build one for ourselves and I'll include detailed instructions on this page, but I can include a list of things to watch for.

1. Make sure that all internal wiring between the incoming power cord and the power outlets is rated for the current you will be drawing.
2. If you use a metal housing make sure you run a ground wire from the housing to the green (ground) wire coming from the extension cord.
3. Electricity KILLS!!! If you don't understand these instructions, or any part of these instructions then call a qualified Electrician.
4. For safety, always plug this controller into a GFCI protected outlet.

Outlet modification for this controller

All wall type dual outlets have two break-away tabs - one on each side. The tabs are designed so that when removed the two outlets are electrically isolated from each other. You have to remove the tab from the hot side (short blade) side of the switched outlet for this controller to function correctly. To remove the tab, just twist with a pair of pliers until it break off.


Wall outlet with break-away tab still in place


Wall outlet with break-away tab removed

Actual controller in operation

This is a video of the actual circuit in operation.
The PID temperature is set to 50F and tha AL1 temperature is set to 80F to demonstrate switching between heat and exhaust vent modes.
You can see the PID in action - the heater side switches more on on & less off as the temperature gets closer to 50F.

 


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